SourcingBuying guides

Fair Trade, Direct Trade and What Each Label Really Promises

Cocoa is one of the few crops where the ethical questions are visible on the packaging. Fair Trade, Rainforest Alliance, direct trade, cocoa horizons, bean to bar: the marks and phrases stack up, and they do not mean the same thing. Some are third-party audited certifications with published standards. Some are company programs. One is not a certification at all. Here is what each actually promises.

Why this is a live issue

The great majority of the world's cocoa is grown by smallholders on plots of a few hectares, concentrated in West Africa. Farmgate prices for most of the crop are set against a commodity market that farmers do not control, and for long periods those prices have sat below the level required for a living income. Child labour on cocoa farms has been documented repeatedly over two decades. The US Department of Labor lists cocoa from several producing countries in its List of Goods Produced by Child Labor or Forced Labor, which is the primary official reference on the question and worth looking at directly rather than through summaries.

Production and price data are published by the International Cocoa Organization, which is free to browse and is not trying to sell you a bar.

Fairtrade International

Fairtrade International operates the best-known mark. Its core mechanisms are a Fairtrade Minimum Price, a floor beneath the market price, and a Fairtrade Premium, an additional per-tonne payment that goes to a cooperative and is spent on projects the members vote for. Standards prohibit forced and child labour and set environmental requirements, and compliance is audited by an independent certifier.

What it does not do: it certifies cooperatives rather than individual farms, so audit coverage of any single plot is partial. Premiums flow to the co-op, and how much reaches individual farmers depends on what the members decide. And the mark on a bar can be based on mass balance accounting, meaning the certified volume in the supply chain matches the volume sold as certified, without the physical beans in that specific bar being traceable.

Rainforest Alliance

Primarily an environmental and farm-management standard, covering deforestation, biodiversity, agrochemical use and worker conditions, now merged with the former UTZ program. It has broad coverage across the industry, partly because it is easier and cheaper for large buyers to adopt. It includes a Sustainability Differential paid to farmers but historically has not set a price floor comparable to Fairtrade's.

Company programs

Several large manufacturers run their own sourcing programs, with names like Cocoa Life, Cocoa Horizons and Cocoa Plan. These vary widely in ambition and in transparency. Some publish detailed third-party verified reporting; some publish a webpage. The useful test is simple: is there an independent verifier, is the standard published, and can you find the audit results? If all three are yes, take it seriously. If the only source of information about the program is the company running it, weight it accordingly.

Direct trade

Direct trade is not a certification. There is no standard, no auditor and no definition. It means a maker buys beans from a producer without the usual chain of intermediaries, and in the craft chocolate world it usually goes with paying multiples of the commodity price and publishing what was paid.

At its best it is the most transparent arrangement in the industry, and a good number of small makers now publish price, volume, farm name and harvest year on the wrapper or their website. At its worst it is an unverifiable marketing claim. The difference is whether specifics are published. Vagueness is the tell.

Bean to bar

A production claim, not an ethical one. It means the company buys beans and does every step itself, rather than melting and remoulding industrial couverture. It correlates with sourcing transparency because small makers buying whole beans generally know their supplier, but it guarantees nothing on its own. Our explainer on how chocolate is made covers what the process involves.

Organic

In the US, the USDA National Organic Program governs the term, and certification concerns permitted inputs and land management. It says nothing about wages, child labour or price. Organic and fair trade address different questions, and a bar can honestly be one without the other.

What actually indicates a well-sourced bar

Ranked roughly by how much information each gives you:

  1. A named farm or cooperative plus a harvest year. Specificity is expensive to fake and easy to check.
  2. A published price paid per tonne. A small but growing number of makers do this. It is the single most informative disclosure available.
  3. A named importer. Several specialist cocoa importers publish their own transparency reporting, which lets you verify a maker's claims independently.
  4. Third-party certification. Real, audited, and less granular than the above.
  5. A company program with published verification. Better than nothing, and highly variable.
  6. The words "ethically sourced" with no further detail. This is not information.

Questions worth asking in a shop

Independent chocolate shops usually know their makers personally, and this is where a directory of local chocolatiers earns its keep. Ask who the maker buys from, whether they can tell you the origin down to a region, and what they pay. A shop that can answer is a shop that has chosen its shelf deliberately. A shop that cannot is not necessarily doing anything wrong, but they are buying on flavour and margin like anyone else.

Also worth knowing: paying more does not automatically mean a farmer got more. Retail price includes freight, duty, packaging, wholesale margin and the shop's rent. A fourteen dollar bar can still be built on commodity beans. Only disclosure tells you, and disclosure is the thing to reward.

Keep reading

Looking for a shop rather than a recipe? Browse chocolatiers by state.